Gaylord, MI 49735 Sixty Hours in Nicaragua
By Candace Neff
Director of Communications
Diocese of Gaylord
I finally have my first stamp in my passport! While I obtained the document nearly three years ago, it patiently waited in a drawer until the end of March to allow my entrance into Nicaragua for a very brief visit to the Diocese of Matagalpa.
Bishop Cooney and the members of the Diocese of Gaylord’s Global Solidarity Partnership Steering Committee had been invited by Bishop Jorge Solorzano to celebrate the rededication of Radio Hermanos, the diocesan radio station serving the people of Matagalpa. Only a week prior to departure, all the pieces fell into place. My excitement further grew when my daughter Kristin, an experienced world traveler, agreed to go along. It would be a very short trip – flying out on a Thursday and back the following Sunday. As Communications Director, it seemed my joining our brothers and sisters for the celebration of the radio station was especially apropos.
Kristin and I arrived in Managua in the evening hours of March 22 carrying over 50 pounds of medicines donated by St. Mary Cathedral parishioners to support one of our medical projects, as well as nearly 25,000 prayer cards for distribution in Matagalpa. While we each had formal instruction in Spanish years ago, we are not fluent and can decipher the language better on paper than when spoken. We were, of course, somewhat out of our element.
After piling our seven bags for the two-day visit near baggage claim, Kristin located the hotel shuttle driver who was ready to escort us from the airport. When I explained I had to declare some medicines at Customs which had been previously approved for entry by MINSA (the Nicaraguan Ministry of Health), he asked for our passports. In seconds my precious document -- ink still drying on the new stamp -- was whisked from my hand and out of sight, with Kristin following it close behind. I was left on my own to navigate the crowded airport with out cart of some 275 pounds of luggage.
Reunited in the Customs area, it took about 30 seconds for the officers to hoist and open the bag with medicines, look inside, and nod that we could begin our adventure. Soon after, we were settled in our hotel for the night with a cool “cervasa” (beverage). The 95 degree temperature was in stark contrast to the six degrees experienced in Gaylord just a few days earlier.
At 7:30 the next morning, Veronica Alvarez from Catholic Relief Services (CRS) met us at the hotel and we departed for Matagalpa. Oscar, who also works with CRS, would drive us for the next two days. (Just a side note: Veronica has been a gem to the partnership between our dioceses. She speaks English quite well, is very efficient, and is the “go to” person when there are any questions.) Veronica informed us there was little time because it would take two and a half hours to travel the 55 miles to Matagalpa. The day was actually Bishop Solorano’s 46th birthday and there was a full slate of activities scheduled.
As we traveled, we mostly viewed the scenery. The roads were fine for a good portion of the trip – much like a county road here in Michigan – although passing is allowed pretty much whenever one wants and signaled by a simple beep of the horn as you go by. Passing on hills is normal and it was common for cars to momentarily leave the roadway to drive on the shoulder or to be three (or even four) vehicles wide on a two-lane road.
The industry of the area is agricultural and cow crossing signs were prevalent. Herds as well as strays would be feeding wherever greenery could be found as it is summer there now. Here in northern Michigan, we are used to seeing “deer crossing” signs. I’ve even smiled at the occasional “duck crossing” sign. But I admit I was taken aback when I saw the “snake crossing” sign as we traveled up a hill – especially because it seemed in fairly close proximity to a village.
Picturing the garter snakes I sometimes see in our fields, I questioned what kind of a snake would be big to warrant warning drivers. Veronica didn’t know, but translated my question to Oscar who doesn’t speak English. However, we understood his reply without interpretation – “boa!”
“Yes,” I thought, “That could be a sizeable and inhibiting speed bump.”
A few miles later, the pavement ended and we began the last leg of our journey up the mountains to the city of Matagalpa. I had read the road was terrible, but I hadn’t really pictured it. In fact, a new road is being constructed in this area, but estimates are that it will take two years or more to complete. Oscar’s talent for dodging deep potholes set only feet apart, along with construction workers, the occasional bicycle rider, children, horses and other vehicles cannot be understated. We slowly moved along with constant jerking left and right, only occasionally catching a corner of a hole to test the shocks of our vehicle.
When we refer to Matagalpa, we are talking about a political structure – a department – an area much like a state or province. A city bears the same name and is the seat of the diocese. It is nestled among the mountains with the diocesan territory stretching across 4,200 square miles and encompassing 13 counties with one Catholic parish in each county. (Two of the larger counties have more than one parish.) There are five diocesan Catholic schools. The region’s total population is approximately 500,000 with more than 524 rural communities. Most of the communities are very poor.
We’ve been in a relationship with the Diocese of Matagalpa now for over three years. We’ve exchanged delegations and met many people we legitimately now call “friends,” yet the statistics become more real when you are there.
Fifty percent of Nicaraguans live below the poverty line and one-third of the population is illiterate. I was surprised to learn that the median age in Nicaragua is 20 years old and that 40% of the population is under the age of 15. The country has endured political turmoil and war, a major earthquake which toppled Managua, and Hurricane Mitch which significantly impacted even the mountainous area we were traveling.
Despite their very real struggles, the joy in the hearts of the people is most evident. They are warm and welcoming. Everyone is greeted with a smile, a hug, and a kiss on the cheek. We arrived to such a welcome at the Diocesan offices which were brightly decorated in honor of the Bishop’s birthday. Kristin and I could tell our visit was going to be full of celebration.
to be continued…